Danielle Centoni’s latest, Fried Rice, reminds us there’s more to the dish than leftovers. She writes, “[T]his book takes the virtues of fried rice — fast, cheap, customizable — and runs with it, using it as a blank slate for a whole world of flavors.”
With 50 ways to rethink fried rice, Centoni takes on the Asian-inspired dishes you might expect, but also guides the home cook through Indian, African and Middle Eastern takes on fried rice. She cruises through Europe and the Mediterranean and rolls through the Americas with Huevos Rancheros Fried Rice and Cajun BBQ Shrimp fried rice.
Here, rice is the platform and the aim is to amplify it. In some cases, you’ll be making coconut or tomato rice in advance. In a couple of others, you’ll use cauliflower rice.
Rice is notoriously neutral, some would even say bland, but Centoni is all about bold flavors. It’s what makes this book such a win for me. In Fried Rice, she goes all in on herbs and spices, and several recipes feature additional garnishes and sauces or oils. Don’t let that scare you off, none of them are particularly time consuming or complicated. They’re small touches that make the final dishes stand out.
For instance, in her Fried Rice with Halloumi, Pickled Onions and Zhug, you’re gonna make the onions and the zhug. It was one of our clear favorites, demolished in a day or two. No leftovers were shoved to the back of the fridge.
Another standout is the Fried Cauliflower Rice with Turkey Kofte, Mint and Feta. It’s a one-pan, weeknight wonder. Turkey is usually pretty nondescript, but like I said, Centoni doesn’t skimp on flavor. The meat is liberally spiced and while it may be tempting to dial it down, or omit ingredients, you’re only doing yourself a disservice. The feta brings a briny note, while mint and cilantro add a bright freshness. I’ve made it twice in the time I’ve had the book.
In the Americas section, I opted for another familiar one: Taco Salad Fried Rice. It’s 80s nostalgia meets burrito bowl meets fried rice. Taking a cue from elsewhere in the book, I swapped in cauliflower rice for basmati. Again, what stands out is that the amount of spices that goes into the meat. Don’t be tempted to grab a seasoning packet. Hit the bulk spices in your supermarket and do it up right.
I’ve just scratched the surface with Fried Rice, but this one’s a win for us. We loved the Indian, African and Mediterranean chapter in particular, and I’m looking forward to trying Centoni’s version of West Africa’s Jollof Rice, Moroccan Fried Rice with Chicken, Saffron and Figs, and when we get to the fall, Polish Fried Rice with Kielbasa and Cabbage.
Get Fried Rice on Amazon | Book Larder